Antoni's LED modification


Want your interior to look like this? Then keep reading.

This is easily one of the most time consuming mods that I have done. This requires some knowledge of how the car's electrical system operates, soldiering, and basic hobby electronics (LEDs, resistors, etc). The biggest question is what LED and Resistor do I use? My LED choice was simply the cheapest found on EBAY and came with the correct resistors when hooked directly to a 12 volt source. I choose 7000mcd (brightness) 3mm LEDs, I found these to be too bright for the doors and steering wheel remote so I'll be replacing these with dimmer versions. When choosing the proper resistor size consult online calculators, you will need to know the forward voltage, diode rated curent, supply voltage, and number of LEDs.

Tools needed: Various hand tools for removal, soldiering iron, multimeter

Parts needed: LEDs, wire, epoxy, and resistors.
Pre-removal: All of the various components that will be modified.


Let's jump right in starting with the climate control screen.



This is looking at the rear of the unit. Most LEDs require that polarity be observed, so you need to make sure negative and positive are correct. Here is the diagram of how to wire them up. There are many methods to attaching the LEDs as well as the resistor. I choose to put a resistor on every LED, some have wired one into the main illumination line.



This is one side of the rear of the climate control screen. You can see the standard bulb holder, it simply un screws and pops out.



Stock bulb insert



Modified insert with LED and resistor. These simply install like the stock bulbs. Remember to maintain polarity. If they don't work, either your soldiering job is poor or you have positive and negative backwards simply flib the insert.


Defroster and ECS switch

Things get a bit more difficult here. One is unable to use the stock holder because the LED is more directional than standard incandescent bulbs so we need to "aim" them. Also there is the issue of taking apart the switches. They are held gether with tabs and can be very brittle, I broke a few tabs myself.



Defroster/ecs is on the right



wiring diagram



LEDs from top. Notice different resistors, one of them actually uses two LEDs.



Notice two LEDs, this helped even the light out.


Fog / popup light switch


pictured on the left



wiring diagram



Back



Inside


Active Exhaust Switch

The switches tend to be trickier as will be noted by the pictures. First you have to take them apart, some have little springs inside



Active exhaust wiring



Active exhaust wiring, this was my first not so pretty.


Rear Wiper Switch


Assembly is tricky pay attention to how it goes together, this pic may help.



Rear Wiper Wiring (looking top down)



Rear Wiper Led


Steering Wheel Remote

3mm LEDs worked here, but surface mount would have been best. First unsolder the ground connection to remove the cover, you will need to desolder a metal bracket so you have room to access the board. Be careful to not bend the ribbon at the board, mine started to break off so I had to repair it.





You need to replace the existing resistors with a different one. I choose to "wire" in my own. There are two separate led circuits starting with 12v at the red arrow, going to a resistor then three leds in series. The first led in each circuit begins at the yellow arrow going to the right. You need to block off the "stock" connection with a bit of tape under the led at the left connection to the board. Ground is returned on the back. It's a good idea to shield each resistor with heat shrink tubing (one is shown covered).





Rear view. Red dots showing "stock" positive connection, purple showing where the led is, black showing rest of the circuit.


Driver's Side Door

This is a bit more tricky. The passenger's side door has holes in the buttons on the top, but holes need to be drilled for LEDs, and jumper wires added for power. I wasn't sure how to do this so I just drilled some holes and ran wire from the other side.



LEDs are hot glued in place and I used a bit of heat shrink wrap around the resistor.



Wires coming around and connected to the stock electronics.


Rest of the lights

For the lights that plug in, this includes courtesy lights, ashtray, cig lighter, and keyring I made my own inserts. These can be purchased pre-made at any online store. I was worried about color differences. I used some epoxy around the LED/resistor to create the regular size inserts. They haven't fallen out and have been installed over a year they don't look pretty but nobody sees them.



Couresty Light.



Cig lighter, ashtray, and keyring.



Example installation.


Door Lights

I couldn't find the right size festoon bulbs to directly relplace these, so I made my own with some solder, plastic pen tube, and expoxy. stock festoon bulb measures 7.07mm in diameter at the connection, and 27.81mm in length. You will need to order the clear cover that covers the rear trunk light from mitsu.



Before getting filled with epoxy for strength.



After.




Copyright Antoni Koziol 2006