Antoni's slave cylinder replacement.


Are you losing clutch fluid? It's possible that your slave cylinder is leaking precious fluid. You might start to notice the clutch pedal start to get closer and closer to the floor, it may feel spongy. After getting to the clutch slave cylinder you can see if there is any wet fluid in the area. Chances are it will be sitting in the pushrod's boot; a simple squeeze may reveal leaking fluid. Included pictures are from a 1992 RT/TT but the procedure is the same in a Non Turbo, just less piping.
Tools needed: Various screwdrivers, 12mm socket, 10mm crows foot wrench, 10mm wrench, bleed tube/container

Parts needed: Slave cylinder

MB670290 for 1992 Turbo, check CAPS for your year to ensure proper part.
DOT 4 approved brake/clutch fluid.
NOTE: Brake/clutch fluid can and will eat away at paint. Keep away from any finished surfaces.





Remove the battery.



Remove ypipe, MAS, and filter.



Remove intake tube/bov and rear turbo intake tube. You should now see the slave cylinder inspect for leaks.



A rusty puddle underneath can be a clear sign of a leak.



There is a hardline going into the cylinder with a flared nut connection. This is where your flared crows foot or regular wrench is a must. There are two 12mm bolts holding it in place, one on top one underneath.



I used a flared crows foot wrench to get the hardline free.



Here is the setup at work. There is very little room with the heater core lines in the way.



Here is the old and new cylinder.



To install the cylinder it is much easier to thread the flared nut by hand before bolting it in place, that will give you some play to ensure the threads don't get striped. After installation you will need to bleed the line out to regain pressure and remove contaminants



To bleed the line: Tighten the bleed nipple. Add a rubber hose to the end of it so you can dump excess fluid into a container. Refill the master cylinder. You will need two people for this job. Press the clutch pedal down and hold. Loosen the nipple, it will allow fluid/air to escape. Tighten, then pull the pedal back up. You will need to repeat this procedure multiple times. Be sure to refill the master every 5-6 times or so. If you hear it gurgle then you've introduced air into the system and need to start over. I went through a small container of fluid to make sure I got rid of any junk. Reinstall the rest of the parts in reverse order. If you don't regain normal pressure in the pedal even after bleeding you may need to adjust the clutch pedal height.



Copyright Antoni Koziol 2005